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For some who have seen my replays I am using FaceTrackNoIR software with my Plexgear 720p Cam.

 

What this software is, is that it's a cheap / almost free version of the TrackIR where you only need a CAM and the Software which can be purchased for roughly 2,5€. Think about a Cam you might have laying around or a cheap one you wanted to buy then you add that with this software and you get a cheap Face Tracking that doesn't cost a fortune!
I would highly recommend this for users who doesn't have much money and want a quick but also a semi-solution for now!

 

My quick guide of this is not so indepth but I will go through the basics on how to set it up (My way)

 

 

First off you need your cam, some are not supported according to the site but mine isn't either but it sure works! (Plexgear  720p Cam)

Then you need your FaceTrackNoIR Software

 

When you buy it, you will get a download link to the program on your mail and it's a quick install.

There is a lot of information on their site which I provided in this guide and you can read other's experiences with it.

 

When you launch the Software it will look sort of like this:

Spoiler

0bf4734bd7.png

 

(Top part should say the Webcam name. Mine was USB2.0 Camera, it used to show the game name aswell but does not do that anymore)

 

The Profile is ofcourse where you save your Setup every time you change it.

Global settings is set for me to 15 Smoothing to make it less sensetive and it's Pitch / YAW X Inverted to make it go left when I go left and so on.

Tracker Source(1st = Master) needs to be set to faceAPI V3.2.6 as the picture shows (In here you can change brightness on the cam in the Drivers through this Software)

Filter is recommended to be Accela Filter Mk2 (Going into it's settings you can lower the Response Time and Get more smooth movement on the camera making it less stuttery or just smoother.)

Game Potocol needs to be FaceTrack 2.1

The bottom half is not needed apart from the GO! Section which starts the program obv!

 

When the front side looks like in the spoiler then you can move onto the Curves.

 

Spoiler

201c631978.png

a3ccbaec15.png

 

 

Things to know here:

Input Yaw (degr.) means how much you move your head to the left or right depending on if you have it inverted.

Setting the input up is simple as going into the program, sitting normally in your chair and staring at the CAM Screen that will show up on the main page. Move your head left and right to see when the Track stops due to it loosing your face features.

I put my input to 40 and 30 degr left and right so I move my head that many degr in real life.

 

Output Yaw (degr.) left and right is how much it moves in-game so you can put it to 70 for right so it doesn't slam right behind the passanger seat and make you go off the road and make so left only goes somewhat to the left so you can look at oncoming traffic.

Output is tested by going in-game after you set up the Input as you want it and moving your head left and right in the cabin. I would recommend doing all this in Single player first!

 

Pitch up and down should be kept Default in my opinion as you rarely move up and down (I have no legs!! but I do have a radio above me!)

Roll should be disabled for many reasons. You rarely tilt your head sideways anyways and it makes for unnecessary calculations within the program. Disabling it is just to move the input all the way down to 0.

 

Quote

 

Straight Line after a surten degree means that it won't continue up into a higher Output degr and will continue on the the input but not give more output.

Steep line makes so it's heavily sensetive. If we say you put 10 Input Yaw and 180 Output Yaw. A single micro movement will shoot the camera in the direction you set it to move.

Curved Line makes so if it's curved it will make a smoother transation from the last movement. It moves in a tilted line up to for example 37 or 38 Input and then curves it's last way up to 40, making it a smooth movement.

Doing as I've done makes so when it goes to 40 it stays 40 and doesn't slow down for the smooth transaction.

 

 

Changed Setups I've done in Yaw Section

 

b3e53895e6.png

 

I changed my Yaw Left/Right as shown in this picture to make a smooth movement from 28 - 45 Input degr. I have to move my head further in real life to get to that 90 degr Output point but I rarely go that far. I stay a bit back from the T/Cross Road section and look left and creep up to make sure none is coming.

When Moving my head on the Left Yaw Input I go 28 and reach around 73 Output and that's roughly what I had earlier and then I can go the extra mile and get the 90 degr and have it smoothed out but would have to be extra cautious so I don't break the Tracking. Playing around with that last curve without making the first few 30 Input degr to steep is essential. Having the early part steep will make it sensetive and snap right to the last Output and then smooth itself out on the end.

 

On the right yaw I changed it so 27~ Input Yaw degr is hitting the 65 Output and smoothes out into 40in and 75 out. I don't go 80 or 90 Output as it would look at the chair instead of the window for me and I am not really interested in my Cabin Chairs.

 

Pick and Roll is untouched as they are not needed to be tampered with unless you feel like it.

 

Change to the Right head movement (YAW)

 

Keeping the Output enough so it makes the end of the screen touch the back of the right window is the max recommendation I would give anyone as if you have it moved to 90 it will look slightly behind the passanger chair as that is how the In-game camera is made. This can cause for many issues such as you lose any sight of your front window and you might crash into something. I have tried it myself for a few days now and I'd rather just keep it lower so I just reach the window and can look at the right mirror while still seeing the front window.

 

I gave two examples here. Left one is for a sharper end that will somewhat make it spike from 68 - 70, making it feel like it locks there for some that likes that or going from 60-73 which is smoother and should give the right amount of head movement in-game for some.

5fa01ed723.png947aaa6ada.png

 

 

 

 

Translations is how far you move forward or backward / left and right in the cabin. I kept theese at default for now but I want to change them later on to see if I can get even closer to the Dashboard!

 

If you sit in a chair and are usually moving left and right and dislike that the camera moves with you and doesn't lignt up with the steering wheel because you didn't want to sit in that position then you can simply make it very very unresponsive or deactivate it by sliding the yellow line all the way down. (To make it less responsive you can move the input to 50 as normal but make another point before that and se it at for example 30 input but 0 output. This will make so you have to move 30 cm in real life //left or right\\ to start moving that somewhat steep 30cm range in-game.) Making it less responsive will just make it way harder to actually move as you'd need to move much further in real life than you'd ever do in-game.

 

 

Changed Setups in Translations Section

fd5ed8e778.png

This is my new setup for the Translations. I changed the:

Left/Right Input X (cm.) to a lower value so I move less left and right making it more smooth for safe trucking. The value is now 50cm IRL for a movement of 30cm in-game.

Up and down Input Y (cm.) is unchanged as it is already decently fitted to the game.

Forward/Backward Input Z (cm.) was changed to a higher value of 50cm in real life to an equal 50cm in-game. I wanted to try this to get as far into the dashboard as I could. This would allow for more forward moving to look out the left window or right window in T or Cross Road Sections

 

Now shortkeys! These are important!

Spoiler

2637c6f507.png

The keys you need here are Center and Start/Stop

 

Center makes so when you look forward and it looks elsewhere you press this button and it will reset it's position to where you are looking.

Start/Stop will make so it either Stops tracking or pauses it but keeps track of your face, resetting it's position to your game's regular placement.

 

If you want it to keep tracking but just stop moving then put the "Engine Tracker" to Keep Tracking

 

Issues you might come across / Solutions to those and also some explainations

Quote

 

Issues you might come across:

  • The camera moving without you doing anything

My way of solving this is to tab out and stop / start the tracking manually without keybind

  • The camera is shaking or moving slightly

It's either to bright or too dark in your room for the face track to capture, you have the Curves way to sensetive (Steep or low input) or you have the cam way to far away.

  • The camera doesn't track your face

You can put your hand infront of the cam and then move it away and it might start tracking, otherwise it might be too bright / dark or it's too far away again!

 

 

As I've said above in this Quote. The distance is a big factor for this, same as how bright or dark your room is. The distance between you and the camera is essential, depending on the camera it will track your face differently. I added a picture showing the distance of the cam to my body which was (1 1/3) of my arm to the cam // Shoulder > tip of my fingers \\ when sitting in my normal position which is as far back as I go.

Spoiler

3453b84256.jpg

This picture was taken in the darkness but I play in a bright lit room. I took of the Lamp Shade to achieve better lighting in my room.

When it comes to getting a better light or camera distance you can follow these steps that I've played with myself:

 

Light Solutions

  • You can first of all take off the lamp shade or replace it with something that doesn't damp the light down. (Taking it off might be ugly so buy a lamp shade that doesn't actually shade it.)
  • Buy stronger lamp. Older lamps were rather weak but I bought a Halogen Lamp I think it was and put that into my Ceiling lamp but ofcourse no lamp shade so it doesn't look that pretty.
  • The bigger the room the less bright the room will be (depending on the lamp). My room is rather small so it gets very bright //and warm for that matter\\ but the ceiling lamp should be just fine for regular use.

having extra lamps / light from the outside will mess with the tracking as there will be light from the left / back / down / up / everywhere and it won't be consistant. If you have one single light like I have which is located above and to the right of me, it gives a very good light. And I have my window covered up with a dark curtain. ((Note: Light from the screen won't mess so much with the tracking from my experience))

 

Distance Solutions

  • Solutions I found myself to be working was to move the screen more forward obviously or moving yourself forward
  • There are other factors to this aswell, leaning back, tilting your head, having the camera at a big angle (for example having it sitting so you look up at the monitor) will not work that well and why would you have it like that anyways.

Some recommend having it standing on your desk but I don't from what I have tested atleast but I guess if you had the racing wheel on an external rigg that isn't connected to the desk and having the cam at head level then that would work. And if you're on an external rigg and the monitor is slightly higher than your head level then you could try and see if you could mount a camera stand onto the rigg that is slightly above your hand when it's placed ontop of the wheel so it can track above your arm / hand when you turn and it would still be head / straight level towards you.

 

Note: You might want to have a clean camera lens so wipe off that screen.

 

Quote

The game is fully functional with the FaceTrackNoIR. Both Truck Simulator games works on this software.

 

This guide will work on both games even though these settings aren't fully optimized for the 18-Wheelers in ATS but it will work for sure. I am currently working on optimizing my guide for American Truck Simulator aswell and it will be arriving shortly with a video that includes City driving and trailer parking (even though I've not driven an 18-Wheeler in ATS for a month or so and sadly I don't have someone that is extremely good who can let me set up their FaceTrackNoIR and demonstrate so I'll gladly do it myself)

 

Changing your Camera position in-game will change the Camera Reset point to that position!

 

There is no need to setup anything in-game as it automatically should do that for you. Just start FaceTrackNoIR first and then the game!

If I find anything new to attach to this guide then I will post new things inside the guide.

(I highly recommend trying it with a Steering Wheel!)

Interested in how it looks for me? Here is my Plays.tv where I have both my report clips and some random clips where I park and such

Note also: When going into low FPS areas, the tracking will lag too in-game so you might want to Pause the Camera Movement and drive safe!

 

[+New]Important: If you have glasses like I do then I hope that you can actually see without them or have non-reflecting glasses. My glasses reflect the light from anything in my room and my monitors so the camera cannot pick up my eyes and then crops the face grid down below your glasses which will make your camera look elsewhere whenever you turn your head in any way. Contacts, non-reflecting glasses or no glasses is the way to go sadly... I know terrible.. I have tried this for a long time and I sadly cannot afford any Non-reflecting glasses as of now to test and I can also not get any contacts yet as I have not met the requirements. I only need my glasses for reading or looking far away unless I want to get close on both parts so it isn't a big issue for me.

 

[+New]As I've gotten questions about the ceiling lamp being on all the time when using FaceTrackNoIR, I've confirmed you don't need it on actually.. However you need a source of light located infront of you then that just lights up your face good enough on left and right side. I use both my left and right extra monitors with two browsers up. I use TruckersMP's forum site as it is bright and works perfect! I changed my settings on the monitors to 100brightness and 80contrast which isn't to bright or to dimmed. When having this type of light source your tracking will be somewhat risky depending on how your camera is tracking but I would recommend playing around with this for a while before deciding to just constantly go with that under heavy traffic. When you're in a Non-collision-zone I'd highly recommend you sit motionless and look forward in your truck and try to notice any movement. Move your head left and right gently and see if it jerks. Go all the way to the end of your Curves that you have set and then move back to the middle. If you notice the camera not being lined up anymore you center it and redo the process again to see if it works for you.

 

I am going to do this without my two other monitors on and just using the game as source of light in day / night cycle of the game. Note that this test was done 3am during the winter so it's pitch black in my room.

 

I also tested doing this in American Truck Simulator so it's working totally fine with the settings I have and I can confirm my settings are supporting ATS right now.

 

Videos

 

(using this software supports the developer of it. He has his story about it on the software website!)

 

I am available for questions at anytime!

You can comment here for questions if there was anything you were to wonder about. I will reply at anytime I am on my computer (which is most of the days / nights!)

 

~1nYX

 

 

 

Changelog / Update to the Guide

Spoiler

 

12-October-2016

  • Played around with the Translations a bit more (left/right) (up/down) (Forward/Backward) Inputs
  • Played around with the Yaw Curves slightly to make the last bit of the movement smooth (Yaw Left/Right)
  • Added explaination for why the line goes straight after some of my Curve Settings
  • Added explaination for curved/steep lines in Curves Section
  • Added Video Preview of how the FaceTrackNoIR works with the current Setup I recently made 12/October/2016

 

16-October-2016

  • Added picture showing my distance of the Camera
  • Added explainations and solutions to camera distance and room lighting

 

17-October-2016 (Tiny Change/Update)

  • Small changes in the Tags
  • Added explaination how to change the Left/Right body movement in the camera to either be disabled or much harder to affect the camera body moving left or right
  • Continued Software Testing to get optimal details and setups

 

21-October-2016 (Minor change/update)

  • Added two pictures of the YawLeft (Right head movement) to show and give another recommendation. Located in the YawCurve Section.

 

23-October-2016 (Very Minor update)

  • Added quote about if this is software / guide works on American Truck Simulator also

 

24-October-2016 (Partial Update)

  • Added American Truck Simulator videos for Picking up delivery / driving in town and also Cargo Delivery video with the ETS2 Settings of FaceTrackNoIR (Not Adjusted for ATS 18-Wheeler)

 

17-November-2016 (Big Tests have been done)

  • Tried playing Euro Truck Simulator 2 with regular glasses +added information about it and solutions
  • Tried American Truck Simulator with current settings +with 2 extra monitors as source of light instead of ceiling lamp.

 

Things that is planned to be added so far to this guide.

Spoiler

 

  • American Truck Simulator Optimization [X] - Working on it (Sadly I didn't have the right amount of time to play around with it enough to get it done by Halloween due to Real-life reasons, me managing my new VTC and also ATS being updated and down a while)
  • American Truck Simulator Showcase video [X] - Partially done (Showcase of the ETS2 FaceTrackNoIR settings on ATS)

 

  • Going to compare this with the TrackIR within 21th - 25th as I have ordered the TrackIR 5

 

Don't forget to make multiple profile saves for each major changes you make so you have both smooth / sensetive / steep or any other settings profiles you want. Always great to be safe and save the pervious setup to recover!

 

(I am really driven to make a perfect guide for this software. I use it everyday and It's a great starter program for those who already owns a Webcam or wanted to buy one anyways!)

(Thanks also for the 4 Upvotes on this guide and 150+ Views! Doesn't seem much to others but it's a lot to me)

 

 

Edited by 1nYX
Continuation to perfect this guide and maintain it
  • Upvote 6

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No idea how it goes with the bumping of Guide posts but I've tried out new things with it.

 

On 2016-10-10 at 3:26 PM, 1nYX said:

[+New]Important: If you have glasses like I do then I hope that you can actually see without them or have non-reflecting glasses. My glasses reflect the light from anything in my room and my monitors so the camera cannot pick up my eyes and then crops the face grid down below your glasses which will make your camera look elsewhere whenever you turn your head in any way. Contacts, non-reflecting glasses or no glasses is the way to go sadly... I know terrible.. I have tried this for a long time and I sadly cannot afford any Non-reflecting glasses as of now to test and I can also not get any contacts yet as I have not met the requirements. I only need my glasses for reading or looking far away unless I want to get close on both parts so it isn't a big issue for me.

 

[+New]As I've gotten questions about the ceiling lamp being on all the time when using FaceTrackNoIR, I've confirmed you don't need it on actually.. However you need a source of light located infront of you then that just lights up your face good enough on left and right side. I use both my left and right extra monitors with two browsers up. I use TruckersMP's forum site as it is bright and works perfect! I changed my settings on the monitors to 100brightness and 80contrast which isn't to bright or to dimmed. When having this type of light source your tracking will be somewhat risky depending on how your camera is tracking but I would recommend playing around with this for a while before deciding to just constantly go with that under heavy traffic. When you're in a Non-collision-zone I'd highly recommend you sit motionless and look forward in your truck and try to notice any movement. Move your head left and right gently and see if it jerks. Go all the way to the end of your Curves that you have set and then move back to the middle. If you notice the camera not being lined up anymore you center it and redo the process again to see if it works for you.

 

I am going to do this without my two other monitors on and just using the game as source of light in day / night cycle of the game. Note that this test was done 3am during the winter so it's pitch black in my room.

 

I also tested doing this in American Truck Simulator so it's working totally fine with the settings I have and I can confirm my settings are supporting ATS right now.

 

More testing to come ;)

The Bot That Never Sleeps

If you see a forum post that might be breaking the rules, report it.

+Rules+How to become GM+Frequently Suggested Things+Feedback+

+FaceTrackNoIR+

Did your post instantly get Forum Moderator by me? No need to be afraid, they are doing their job.

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Nice, thank you very much

                                                                                                                                                                                          Sincerely, El_Bras!leño
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           TruckersMP 

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